How It Works | Pueblo Tub Refinishing

Step by step

1. Inspection and material check

The tub is identified as cast iron, steel, fiberglass or acrylic, and checked for previous refinishing, rust-through, and flex in the floor of the tub. That determines the whole approach.

2. Mask, vent and strip

The room is masked, exhaust is set up, and old caulk, trim and any failed prior coating are removed. Stripping a previous refinish is the longest part of the job when it applies.

3. Repair and etch

Chips and cracks are filled and faired flush, then the whole surface is chemically etched or abraded so the primer can bond to what is otherwise a deliberately slick glaze.

4. Prime and spray

Bonding primer first, then several thin coats sprayed with flash time between. Thin coats matter: a heavy coat sags at the tub radius and stays soft underneath.

5. Cure, re-trim and caulk

Hardware is reinstalled and fresh caulk applied after the coating sets. Water contact usually waits 24 to 72 hours depending on the system used.

What you can do before we arrive

None of this is required — it just makes the visit quicker.

Clear everything out of the bathroom, including the shower caddy, bath mats and anything stored on the tub deck.
Arrange not to need that bathroom for at least 24 to 72 hours after the work, depending on the coating system used.
Confirm whether the price includes the tile surround, because photos in listings often show a full-bathroom result at a tub-only price.
Point out every chip, crack and rust spot in advance rather than letting them be discovered on the day, when they become change orders.
Make sure a window can open or that the crew can run exhaust ducting to one, and plan for pets and anyone with breathing sensitivity to be out of the house.
Throw out any suction-cup bath mat now; they are the most common cause of a refinished surface lifting.

How We Work